by Lynne Gough, May 2017
A Visit With Jim and Luci Mendoza of the JLT Holstein Ranch in Petaluma
Last March we vacationed in Sonoma County, home of some of California’s most beautiful wine country. While driving between Petaluma and Sonoma, I stopped to take photos of some contented Holstein cows against a background of beautiful grassy, green hills. When I got back into the car Bernard said that our rear tire was almost flat. So, we drove up a long, nearby driveway and by the time we reached the house, that tire was flat as a pancake.
Lucille Mendoza, owner of the JLT Ranch, opened the door and introduced her son J.V. (James Viera Mendoza) who asked us to drive forward to the barn. While J.V. helped change our tire, I learned that we had landed on a Holstein dairy farm—a great coincidence since my book, Asa and the Holstein Queen, is about my great-grandfather Asa Morris and his world famous Holstein cow, Tilly Alcartra. Tire replaced, I gave a copy of my book to J.V. with many thanks.
Two weeks later a lovely letter came from Luci saying that she had really enjoyed the book. Coincidentally, her mother-in-law Doris “Scotty” Mendoza had been born on County Road 98 in Yolo County (setting for the book), and she and her husband Jim would enjoy a visit with us if we came back their way. I had been seeking just such a family dairy farm to learn about Holstein dairying in the modern era.
When people order their morning café latte, most have absolutely no idea how much expertise it takes to raise cows and deliver that great commodity called MILK. In the 1970s, on an experimental farm, I milked three cows by hand twice a day. That was just an amateur venture but the JLT Holstein Ranch is the REAL THING in black and white—350 of them to be exact. And, they have all the latest equipment to milk their ladies efficiently.
On our return visit to the JLT Ranch in May we met with Jim and Luci Mendoza—warm, friendly folks, full of vitality. They are justly proud of their family, their ranch, and their unique American dairying heritage. We shared common memories of Yolo County and I got to meet their ancestors through many lovely old portraits of Jim’s Portuguese and Lucy’s Irish/Scottish forbearers.
Their cozy home is filled with remarkable wooden treasures created by Luci’s father, Norman Molyneaux, a very gifted carpenter. We were astounded by his substantial dollhouse replica of the Mendoza family’s original Point Reyes farmhouse recreated in exacting detail. It is hinged to reveal rooms that perfectly mirror their old home—including the period furniture, wallpaper, and tiny family portraits about ½” in size.
This marvel is a loving tribute to Jim’s grandfather, Joseph Viera Mendoza, who immigrated to the United States from Portugal in the late nineteenth century. He could neither speak a word of English, nor could he read or write. When he arrived in Point Reyes, California, Joseph had to overcome the prejudices of the local Irish landowners and became the first Portuguese farmer to settle there. In 1919, with the grit, determination, and innate intelligence of many men of his era, he purchased the historic A and B ranches. He and his wife raised a large family and parlayed their purchase into a successful dairy business which now spans four generations.
In the late 1960s, the A and B Ranches, among several others in the area, were part of a purchase by the federal government to create the Point Reyes National Seashore. Family lands like the Mendoza’s were then leased back to them by the government. In 1979, Jim, Luci, and their three children moved their dairy business to their current 650 acre property near Petaluma. In 2007, they began a three year transition to organic milk and are now producing for the brand “Organic Valley.” Selling milk as “organic” requires a carefully monitored supply chain of feed and hay, a strict feeding regimen, and special handling procedures that guarantee authenticity.
I talked to Jim about my great-grandfather Asa W. Morris and his efforts to improve the Holstein breed. Jim remarked that he felt that Asa had a “sense” for dairy cows—a special ability to foresee potential in his animals. He also commented on the contributions Asa made to the dairy industry saying that, “He was really something and he accomplished a lot for his time.” Today, although Tilly’s annual production records have been surpassed many times, a 30,000 pound cow is still considered a high standard in the industry. Jim remarked that if he had a cow like Tilly today and gave her modern feed formulas, her annual production could have even greater. When he looked at Tilly’s photograph he remarked that Tilly was not a typical show type animal. Although show animals may meet the perfect physical standard, they sometimes fail where it really counts—quantity of milk production. Tilly was thickly built from top to bottom, with a low udder, big bones, and a large mouth. Jim was taught that a large mouth is a big asset in a Holstein cow. It guarantees they can shovel in a lot of food which means a lot of milk!
The 350 cows at the JLT Ranch average between 24,000-27,000 pounds of milk a year. For the most part they have a useful life of about 5-6 years which varies with individual productivity. They have some cows as old as 12 years. A family favorite is a beautiful red and white Holstein named “Jackie” by Jim and Luci’s grandchildren.
Their son J.V. runs the ranch along with several employees who live on the premises. The ranch boasts a hundred-year-old milking barn and a hay storage facility built by J.V. Behind this is a “loafing” barn with stalls covered in comfy sand and used for the cattle to rest, especially in cold weather. Another area includes several recuperative waterbeds also covered in sand for sick or injured animals. On a nearby hillside are specialized crates for young calves, who are gradually introduced to larger and larger pens as they grow. The Mendoza’s pay special attention to their youngest animals, keeping them separated from one another to prevent the spread of disease.
Altogether, I had a splendid 62nd birthday! Bernard and I enjoyed the warm Sonoma sunshine, the scenic rolling hills, and good company. Before we left, we watched a single file line of Holsteins lumbering along from the milking barn out to pasture on the nearby hillside where they dotted the distant landscape in little black and white specks. It’s always pleasant and relaxing for me watching cows being cows; they live in the moment where time doesn’t matter and pasture grass is always delicious. It’s a totally different world!
